Of the many steak joints in the Nebraska city, Monarch is the first to dry-age steaks in-house.

All meat should be hung. That was the directive Patrick Micheels, a chef in Omaha, Neb., took from reading “The River Cottage Meat Book,” a 543-page tome by the British chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall that captivated the food cognoscenti in the early 2000s.

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